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Monday, 31 August 2009

Comments

Brigadeiro

Love the rich russet red tones! The washed leather jacket looks absolutely delicious!

moi

I think down the way Damir styles down the catwalk, it frightens the fuck out of most guys! In fact, the buyers at the show were a little apprehensive until getting to the showroom and combining various styles together to work out what's right for their respective clientele. The long johns are a very big yes for spring & autumn, the red while looking impressive would be very difficult for any man to incorporate into their wardrobe (something a lot of buyers debated). But yes, the pictures never do his line justice...once you pick up the pieces and put them on, you realise you're paying good money for serious quality. Good way to wake me up !!! :D

Ebay Fashion Addict

there are definitely some amazing pieces in there that could mix and match with more traditional menswear. beautiful stuff!

Dave C.

Felt I had to respond to this as one of your (presumably) few male readers. You hit the nail on the head when you said that these clothes were 'Things I'd Steal If My Significant Other Owned Them'. The problem is that it seems this is exactly what they're intended as - clothes for women!

I'm a bit of a fan of androgyny, but considering it's a men's collection only the very round-shouldered chap in the all grey ensemble has something approaching a wearable outfit. Yes, some of these items could fit pretty well into a lot of guy's wardrobes, (personally I quite like wearing a deep red or claret, so picture two appealed to me - don't think I'd drape a crimson scarf around my tummy though!) however, I think most men would dismiss this stuff on three counts; 1) because it doesn't look very hard-wearing 2) you have to look like an extra from 'The Man Who Fell To Earth' in order to wear them and 3) The real difficulty - a lot of men are too literal minded and want to see a coherent look on a model, they don't get the mix'n'match aesthetic that women understand so effortlessly. This is why the likes of N*xt and G*p have such a tyrannical hold over the male wardrobe.

As for frightening most 'non-fashion' men, well, yes I guess it would, but why do designers purposely alienate half of their market in this way? Damir Doma produced some fantastic menswear the last time you featured him, but on the evidence of this collection, even speaking as someone who is 'fashion friendly' I feel a bit let down. I dunno, maybe you just have to try them on to appreciate the quality... Great sandals though.

PS. Your ribcage dress is amazing!

moi

I think it's more of a cultural explicit thing...Damir is far more successful within central Europe than he is in predominantly 'masculine' nations such as the UK & USA...and incredibly successful in Japan, where the culture is heavily influenced with what we would perceive as feminine undertones. Obviously many other variables which attribute to the response he receives in various territories...I'm surprised his uptake in the middle-east as been subdued since the inspiration certainly derives from that nomadic 'sand struck' aesthetic...something i'm personally loving under this vast umbrella of the 'urban traveler'. Not sure what you mean by hard-wearing, some of the linens and wools are pretty durable...this is s/s 10, we've just gone through s/s 09...those collection were always likely to be loose and flimsy to a degree...his a/w 09 is more heavy-duty i guess, there's considerable weight on the cardigans and so forth...

Dave C.

Hmm, yes, fair points. I love the 'urban traveller' aesthetic and do actually really like the idea of the kind of nomadic look you're referring to, but I was only speaking from a UK point of view - you'd be hard pressed to find any bloke wearing this kind of stuff in my home town (Liverpool). As for hard wearing, what I meant was that most guys, for whatever reason, would balk at paying through the nose for gossamer fabrics, however beautiful. Interesting that you define Britain and the US as masculine nations compared to the Middle East. Perhaps Damir's lack of success in that region is more to do with a perception of Anglo American styles as somehow progressive. Can't wait to see his a/w collection.

moi

Ah, I was just meaning from a western materialistic perspective...Although after spending time at pukkelpop in Belgium, I've very quickly realised how aggressive the culture in the UK is in comparison to Europe. I'm not referencing the perspectives men hold on women and vice versa concerning masculinity, simply in relation to purchasing habits and the importance placed on acquiring expensive materialistic things and the image that portrays. What's interesting concerning the UK, is how only London houses progressive designers, whereas in Europe, it's throughout major cities no matter the nation. People argue the financial case, however i disagree...UK culture seems to instantly dispel anything remotely against the highstreet trend, also an acceptance for poor quality at high pricing. Anyway...could ramble all night...I work for middle-eastern stores, I've read cultural and psychological reports from highly decorated authors...and to be honest, no closer to understanding how or where that territory is evolving...they have such deep seeded beliefs, entirely different forms of structure and to be honest after visiting, there are serious undertones that contradict their way of embracing western influence.

naboonies

I'm one of your male readers, and love Damir Doma HAHA. Many of his runway looks are interesting styling-wise, but I'm sure a lot of guys out there might think twice to don such outfits. However I believe separated the pieces are incredible with nice details!

Yeah and who says only 6ft skinny lads can work those stuff? I for one love the soft billowing effects and am searching for the substitute of this expensive stuff (read: womenswear dept of high street stores)

Queen Michelle

Some great points chaps!
With catwalks the designer is of course presenting an entire vision, the complete idealistic aesthetic behind the concept for the collection, and so yes the looks usually presented are not ones most men would wear don head to toe - men do have to be able to seperate the pieces and imagine them in another context.
It's also true that many men can't do this, but I suppose if you are the kind of man attending the show of, or even showing interest in, a designer like Damir then it's assumed you are more 'fashion forward', for lack of a better expression, than the average men therefore can see each piece out of context. Of course wearing leggings and sheer tops with sandals all together wouldn't suit many men, but take those elements and combine them with 'normal' pieces and I feel there is something there for most men.
I feel designers like Geoffrey B Small and Damir Doma do try and make men think differently about how they dress - to let go of traditional ideals of masculinity. If I saw a man wearing the last grey look, all of it, I'd think he'd look incredible. But not only that, even if you feel there are elements that are too feminine there is still a general aesthetic which could be interpreted - swap the jersey trousers for loose grey suit trousers, swap the sheer top for a light grey cashmere sweater and add a linen jacket and some sandals and the look is instantly 'harder' but still has that silhouette.

moi

Not sure I agree concerning GBS letting go of traditional ideals...i'd say they stand very much for traditional ideals, whereby everything is handmade, you have a dialogue with the designer at the atelier and it's a kind of contemporary version of pre-war client relations. Some of the fabrics they use are interesting and their manipulation of them, wouldn't classify it as questioning western ideals of masculinity though misses! sorry to piss on your bonfire...:D

Queen Michelle

If you feel traditional masculine ideals are based on the experience of getting fitted at an atelier then there is only a small minority of men who have the luxury of that level of wealth, or are of a certain generation, to have had that experience. I think that represents tradition yes, but not traditional ideals of masculinity. Ask an average man what he feels sums up masculinity in how he dresses and I bet you all your Damir clothes he doesn't say "getting a handmade suit". Obviously if you move in more fashion-y circles it's a different perspective and, as I said, before a man knows who Damir or GBS is he is at a certain level anyway.
Out of curiousity, would you wear a chiffon top?

Sister Wolf

Oh my! I love how moi is so pretentious and argumentative! I hope Dave isn't scared away by this know-it-all. Come back, Dave!

moi

Nothing to do with being 'pretentious'...or being 'argumentative'...or 'scaring people' away...rather ironic coming from someone with the name 'wolf'. However, anyway...considering I was in a position to comment since I wear both designers, I thought I would, apologies you find that so abrasive sistaaa *click click*. I didn't mention hand-made suits? however I don't see where GBS would challenge traditional masculinity anyway, they're previous seasons have been dominated by shirts, familiar coats, bootleg trousers and sport jackets? The majority of their clientele are of an elder ilk, certainly not challenging ideals of masculinity. Personally I don't classify things anyway regarding boundaries etc with what guys know which designers because they all eventually imitate on the highstreet anyway. For instance I purchased my carpe beanie like 4 years ago and now everyone walks around with slouchy beanies, but that's a sociological debate more than anything. Would I wear chiffon, no. Nothing to do with femininity, just don't like the texture, but maybe that's because I subconsciously lock it into a category surrounding the ladies???? This isn't something aimed at guys entirely though, taken me an eternity to get the lady into sarouel's and her mumsie instantly dismissed them as 'not fitting properly'...all in a day of ideals!

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