As with most people, many of the designers featured on this blog are fiscally out of my reach. However, I post them because, for me, they provide crucial inspiration. Kick starts onto a sartorial route I'd abandoned or temporarily lost interest in. Seeing labels and designers' work that I cannot afford, nor find, delivers to me the impetus to attempt my own DIY interpretations and embark on the challenge of recreating a mood or look for much cheaper and more personal to me.
When the wonderful Venessa sent me a link to Australian label Silence is Golden, in a 'It's So You' moment, my love of loose fitting men's trousers and stark tailoring came rushing back to the forefront of my head.
Kelvin Tam, who studied architecture at the University of New South Wales, explores and blurs the boundaries between male and female in his SS08 collection. There are undeniable nods to Marlene Dietrich with the high waisted trousers, sharp shouldered, 40's style tuxedo jackets and stunning flowing goddess gowns. The interjection of muted metallics amongst the monochrome adds a bit of a glamourous edge to this intelligent and grown up collection.
It's also interesting to me to see a former architect, gone into fashion, tackle structure and tailoring. I find that creatives, who studied in a different field originally, usually bring something unique to the table. A case in point would the amazing Emilio de la Morena, a former sculptor, who's re-interpretation of the physical form by expert manipulation of fabric, breathes new life into classic silhouettes, such as the cocoon or body conscious forms. In Kelvin Tam's case the folds and unusual volume on skirts, for example, has a very obvious parallel to that of the architect's vision which clearly still exists within him. It's this collision of creative disciplines which serves up a unique melting pot of ideas and exploration of dressing the body to both compliment and adorn.
My only complaint? The shoes. Good god those shoes are doing that lookbook no favours at all - but I'm sure I could remedy that no problem!
Queen Michelle