Let's Talk Fragility, Smoke & Crows

I mentioned in the second half of my Q&A post, I sometimes come across designers in the oddest of ways. Whilst searching for images of smoke and industrial buildings for a design project, I stumbled upon the work of Arnhem Academy graduate Iris Van Herpen.

Her latest collection, entitled Refinery Smoke, is based on the fluidity and the almost ethereal appearance of smoke formations. Upon inspecting her creations I must admit I was pretty floored by her interpretations of her inspiration.

Beautiful dresses are adorned with billowing puffs of material which swathe the model as if appearing from smoke. It's almost like a modern, walking version of a Renaissance painting where the heavenly subject appears from clouds. Yet the designs are decidedly edgy and contemporary and steer very much away from being frou frou and meringue-like in appearance.

On exploring her previous collections, Chemical Crows and Fragile Futurity, Van Herpen seems to push boundaries in terms of the actual materials she chooses to use. For example, she utilises thin metal rods which are shaped and formed into cage-like, ruffled creations, where the models appear as if fragile birds encased inside.

It could of course be said that these pieces are 'unwearable', and that may be true, but I feel Van Herpen's remit is not as simple as making wearable clothes. I feel her curiousity to experiment and venture outwith the realms of what constitutes acceptable working materials for clothes, is more important to her than the very basic end product of a dress one could wear. That is not to say that she doesn't create perfectly wearable clothes, because of course one look as those fabulously fringed frocks shows us that her head is not entirely caught up in the conceptual; she simply recognises that fashion is as much a creative outlet as any other artform, and she has things she wishes to express and has no fear in doing so.

I am very excited to see what she'll be creating next.

Queen Michelle

Comments

[Frankie - Swell Vintage]

WOW! So inspiring! x

[WendyB]

I love the giant ruffle in the second row.

[SOS!]

The collection is beautiful. The futuristic wings particularly grabs my attention, and I don't care if they say it not wearable! I'd definitly wear that!
xx- LJ from SOS!

[Sal]

I adore the second to last look - with the halter-esque top and gold ruffled skirt.

[Janine]

The fringed dresses are astonishing.... I could see myself getting married in something like that, architectural, but beautiful.

[Sweety P]

I love the detail and the shape of these garments. There are like wearable art pieces. I love it!

[enc]

I think this is my favorite example of interpretation ever. The left-hand dress in the second row is probably the best textural exploration I've seen all year.

Sculptural.

[sascha]

Very Victor & Rolf like! Thanks for the exposure!

[Food delivery Philippines]

Excellent entry! I'm been looking for topics as interesting as this. Looking forward to your next post.

-Briana

[Food delivery Philippines]

Excellent entry! I'm been looking for topics as interesting as this. Looking forward to your next post.

-Briana

[emma]

check out the new issue some time...
www.pockettozine.com

[ivania(love-aesthetics)]

o I love her! a good friend of mine works with Iris on constructing (cant really say she sews)her collections and allowed me to be present at her her latest fashionshow, AND IT WAS AMAZING, I WAS IN AWE

[Noa]

Hey,

whilst reading your Q&A, I did remember me sending an email about Iris, but you never writing about her, so was surprised to see her on the blog now, especially because she really deserves it so much. I am glad that whilst yo probably ignored my stalkerish mail at the time about Iris' collection, you stumbled upon her by accident, and loved it! That to me proves, that if your work is good, people will discover you anyhow... even without the annoying emails from friends, trying to promote your work on the net :D

[Kat George]

Amazing... I love the structure and the amazing textural cacophony... Lovely! xx

[philippine gift delivery]

Awesome. I learned a lot.

-Michelle Branch